Common Issues For Inflatable Paddle Boards

inflatable paddle boards

If you have spent any time on my website you will know that I am a big fan of inflatable stand up paddle boards.

I have been using them for many years and have tried all different brands, sizes and types.

They are awesome and have become very popular. These days I see more inflatable paddle boards out on the water than hard boards for recreational paddling.

Most ISUP’s are very durable but they aren’t indestructible and I think it’s important to be aware of the possible issues before making a purchase and know what to do about them.

I’ll go through the three most common inflatable paddle board issues below.

Top 3 Common Complaints

Seam Issues

Probably the most common complaint with an inflatable SUP is faulty seam issues.

I have seen this issue right across the board with all different brands, even with the big names.

I’d love to say if you buy from company ‘A’ as opposed to company ‘B’ faulty seams will never happen but it’s impossible to predict.  I would guess that all ISUP manufacturers end up with a small percentage of boards that have seam issues.

It is a common quality control issue for inflatable SUP’s that has yet to be completely solved and maybe never will be.

Despite big advancements in ISUP technology and construction these paddle boards still have seams and you can’t get away from that.

Regardless how the seams are sealed there is still the possibility that a very small section doesn’t seal properly despite testing. Seams can also weaken in extreme heat.

How you care for your paddle board can definitely prolong it’s life but if you are in the small percentage that ends up with a new board that has a faulty seam then you have three options:

  1. If your board is still covered by warranty ship it back to the retailer and they will send you a new one. You’ll probably have to pay the shipping cost but you’ll get a new board and won’t have to bother trying to fix it yourself.
  2. If your warranty is up then you’ll need to fix it yourself. It actually isn’t that hard, I have done it successfully before by using the PVC glue that comes in the repair kit. What I did was I put glue in the seam and around the seam and then used some clamps to hold it together for a good 24 hours. Do this when your board is deflated.
  3. If the leak in the seam is quite large you may need to take it to a boat company to fix professionally.

Loose Valve

The valve can sometimes become loose and need to be tightened. If your valve is loose you may notice you are leaking air around the the outside of the valve.

This issue shouldn’t be a big deal and is easily fixable.

Every board comes with a repair kit and in that repair kit you will find a valve tightener. Use that tightener to give the valve a good twist so that it locks back into place.

That should hopefully solve the problem.

Tears and Leaks

Being an inflatable of course tears and leaks are going to be a concern. I don’t see them often but they definitely do happen.

In general most inflatable paddle boards are made quite strong and durable. Some of the cheaper models have less layers and are therefore more prone to tears.

However if you’ve bought a good board then it’s really up to caring for it properly to keep it in good condition.

So how do you care for an inflatable SUP properly? Follow these steps:

1. Rinse it with fresh water after being used in the ocean. Close the valve and twist the cap on to avoid water entering the chamber when rinsing.

2. Dry thoroughly before packing it away to avoid mold.

3. Don’t roll it up too tightly. The tighter you roll, the more stress you put on the seams.

4. Store it out of direct sunlight when not in use and away from the elements in a dry, cool area. Excessive exposure to sun and heat can cause the glued seams to fail.

5. Take care not to drag it too much on gravel or rocks.

6. Be careful not to bump into barnacles – these are often found on the side of docks.

7. Use a 303 protectant on your board to protect it from harsh UV rays and stains. Don’t use the 303 protectant on the traction pad or areas where you stand – it tends to make the board quite slippery.

8. Use all natural gentle cleaners and a soft scrub brush on your boards surface when cleaning and towel dry afterwords.

Care for your board properly and it will hopefully last you a long time!

I think it is important to be educated and aware of what could happen with an inflatable SUP but don’t let these issues deter you from buying one.

As a general rule they are usually very durable. They are often used by rental outfitters because they are stable and easy to paddle but also can withstand a fair amount of abuse.

As with any water activity it is recommended that you be smart and always wear a PFD, paddle with a buddy and don’t venture too far from shore if you are not a strong swimmer.

Hope these tips help you take care of your board and have many fun and safe paddling adventures on the water!  Click here to read our detailed inflatable paddle board reviews.

Comments

  1. Patrick says:

    I am looking at getting myself a SUP Board but have been warned off black/dark coloured boards as they are allegedly more susceptible to popping due to hot weather. Is this true? Would it be best to avoid darker coloured boards all together?

    • Allison says:

      Hey Patrick, I haven’t had any issues with darker coloured boards myself. Air pressure does increase in the heat though so best practice with any coloured board is to leave a little room for the increase in air pressure. If it’s super hot I normally only inflate my SUP to 12 PSI instead of 15 PSI. Also when not in use try and keep the board in the shade if possible.

  2. Leon Fisk says:

    Hi ISUPworld,
    Please can you help. I have a decathlon itiwit paddle board 10ft touring model (FR-KAV B, 2019/04, D9 18, 96892). I grounded the fin in the sea which put a crack in the plastic housing that the fin slots into. This crack looks easily repairable. However, with stresses the fin is put under I realise the correct and best glue is needed. Would you be able to advise on the best and correct glue to use?
    Any of your help here to get me waterborn would be much appreciated.
    Thanks.

    • Allison says:

      Hey Leon, Sorry for my late response but if the fin is still cracked you could use AquaSeal glue. That stuff usually works great. Clifton Urethane Adhesive is also known to be a good glue for those types of repair. Good luck!

    • Remove the fin box and replace or fix using a soldering iron, loads of videos on YouTube

  3. I just removed the deck pad from my ROC iSUP. Any advice on removing stubborn adhesive residue so I can install a new deck pad? I’ve tried mineral spirits and light sanding, but it’s not budging. I’m not sure what products are safe on the PVC material.

  4. Hi! Any tips on how to repair the canvas strap handle (in the middle of the isup) that has come detached? Can I just use superglue? (one side has pulled out from underneath the traction pad)

  5. I can’t seem to find help for my problem. I have a hands free pump and it works great on 3 other paddle boards, however, when I use it on my board, I have to hold it in place and press hard a certain way or air escapes from the top – not the valve, but the seam around it. It takes about 10 minutes to fill it up and I have to hold it the entire time or it will pop out. Everything is the same size and the nozzle fits, but this is ridiculous. I don’t use it as much as I would like because inflating it is such a hassle. When it is filled, there are no leaks. Anyone every have this problem? I really would love to know how to fix this without having to buy a new board. I have had it almost 2 years, so definitely no warranty.

    • Hey Karen, Try changing the gasket (little rubber ring) on your pump valve adapter. Sometimes different boards require a different sized gasket in order to seal properly onto the valve. Your pump probably came with a few different sized gaskets in the package, With a different sized gasket it will likely seal fine to your board. Hopefully that helps!

  6. Any ideas on why my paddle board looks like a banana?

    • Hey Eli, I’d have to see a photo to give a more accurate answer but possibly it doesn’t have enough air in it? However if it is misshapen that would be something to email the company about.

  7. John Oakes says:

    I was gifted a hydro force at the beach. I’m assuming that it was due to the very round middle. Picture a snake with a ball in the middle. Is there any hope or is it too far gone?

  8. Hi! Do you guys cover your SUP when it’s not on the water? We went out last Sunday and Monday when it was 90 degrees and 2 of our SUP’s popped when we were resting and it was just laying on the grass. We had 15 psi on it as the board says it should but my guess because of extreme heat it expanded? Maybe when it’s too hot don’t put max psi? Thoughts please. Thank you!

    • Allison says:

      Hey Jojo, Oh man that’s awful. I also saw someones board blow this weekend in the extreme heat, I felt so bad for them. So yes in the heat it is wise to only inflate your board to around 12-13 PSI to allow room for air expansion. The air can expand quickly if it is really hot out and unless you are letting a little air out here and there to make room for that expansion it can end up blowing. I’ve never seen one blow on the water. It always seems to be when it is just laying on the grass. It was extremely hot in my area as well this past weekend and I was paddling both days. I inflated my boards to 12 PSI only and didn’t have an issue so I think that’s the way to go. The board will still be very rigid at only 12 PSI and it gives you a little safety room. Also if at all possible keep the board in the shade when resting or just let a tiny bit of air out. I’m so sorry that happened to you guys!

  9. Charlie Fitzpatrick says:

    Hi. Great article! I have ATOLL ISUP about 5 years old. I notice that it looked thicker last time I inflated it. I then saw that the seam glue was showing along the length of the board (about 1/8 inch). There are no leaks. Is this normal wear for an ISUP?

  10. Very helpful article! Question.. I have a new ISUP. I want to add some D rings on the back end.. but the traction mat covers most of the board back there. Should I glue the D rings on top of the mat? Or should I try and heat up the mat enough to trim it away to make room for the D ring patch?

    • Hey Kat, Yes you could glue the D-rings to the deck pad but they typically won’t be as strong there. It still can work, just depends what you will be attaching to the D-rings.

      • I was hoping to put a strap between the D rings to help me get back on to the board fro. The back. Sounds like that is not going to work! If I decide to place them there just for a bungee.. I’ll put on top. Thanks!

  11. We have a maybe 8 year SE Needlenose 126 paddleboard which we LOVE because of your site. So first off Thank you. We have noticed the blue pad starting to deteriorate. Meaning it leaves you with blue knees and feet and will transfer to our white stern on our sailboat. It does wipe off, but wondering if there is anything we can do to the board to stop it? Maybe a spray of some sort? Second question is we have a pin hole leak in the top of the side seam near the bow. Do you recommend your Aquaseal (3 layers) for something like that, a patch or we have Toobseal to attack it from the inside.

    • I know Toobseal is great for the inside but I’m actually not sure about how it works on the outside for a little leak. If you end up trying that I’d love to hear how it goes. I usually Aquaseal for a pinhole leak with a small patch and it works well. I’m experimenting with using Aquaseal and gorilla tape right now, seems to be working well too.

    • Hi Michelle. Did you ever find a fix for the blue issue? The blue dye started coming off only a year after having my board. Makes a mess. Just bleeds blue eveytime it gets wet. Thank you

  12. Kelly Lanigan says:

    I have a Cruiser Crossover ISUP and the main fin snapped off. They have discontinue this model along with the replacement fin. Anyone have an idea of how to fix/replace? Thanks in advance!

  13. Nicole Steffens says:

    This is really good info. I noticed my Irocker, about 3 yrs old, is tearing at the fold site and leaking. My husband’s board is a tear older, Caribe SUP and dies not have this issue. Do you think it’s a defect?

    Nicole

  14. A.J. Anderson says:

    Hello,

    My girlfriend bought a Irocker Blackfin board last summer and it’s been great. However, we noticed today that the traction pad has begun separating from the bard. The pad feels like it’s a foam of some sort. What do you recommend using to resecure it? Is a year of use normally cause stuff like this to happen? Thanks so much for your help and love the website. Have found it very helpful.
    A.J.

  15. Jean McKnight says:

    I had a work emergency and left my inflatable on my car in the sun, and it now has tiny slow leaks at multiple places on the seams. I’ve tried putting the vinyl cement on them, but they come back. Can’t figure out how to put the glue “in” the seams, as there’s no visible separation. Any suggestions? I LOVE this board and am really heartbroken. Even tried to buy a new one but they don’t make them any more. TIA…

  16. Georgios says:

    Anyone heard that aztron’s double chamber sup boards (e.g. neptune) have issues to be distorted? Nose to tail not completely straight? The distributor said that aztron is aware and agrees that there might be that kind of faults and ar acceptable (!!!)

  17. Tomasz Nieprzecki says:

    I can’t tell was it tracking badly or not as I tried it once on choppy water :/ I was wondering should I worry much about it or just ignored ?

    • Allison says:

      Yes it was probably just glued on slightly wrong. If it’s not affecting the tracking I wouldn’t worry about it, it shouldn’t be that big of a deal.

  18. Tomasz Nieprzecki says:

    Hi , I am using sups for multiple years , I purchased new one recently , and I noticed that glued fin attachment ( not fin itself) isn’t positioned exactly straight at the middle of my board ,it’s slightly to the left and angled to the right ,I was wondering was it a defective one I as the one I get previous has fin precisely on the middle and I never encountered fins not aligned properly before.

  19. Jen Newman says:

    Brand new ROC board. Should I be worried about a few small bubbles in the side wall? They are not near the seams.

    • Allison says:

      Small bubbles can definitely happen, it’s not uncommon. You just don’t want them to get bigger so if they start to grow I would suggest contacting the company for sure.

    • I have a Aquaplanet board and it is the same. the side wall, not near a seam is leaking very slowly. It leaked from new so I did a youtube video. I photographed and zoomed in and you can see is is leaking from a crack in the plastic only visible by zoomed photograph. They implied i must have damaged it but on telling them I informed them of the leak before I used even used the board they have agreed to change the SUP. Hopefully

  20. Allison: I recently bought a new FunWater 10’6′ Ultra-Light SUP. Every time I pump it up, when I remove the hose, it opens the valve and I lose a ton of air even if I stop it again almost immediately. I know I’m starting with the valve in the locked position. I’ve looked at the instructions a hundred times, I’ve tried doing it the “wrong” way, but it always does this to me. I haven’t found any info online about this phenomenon, and I’m frustrated. Any ideas?
    Thank you! 🙂

    • Allison says:

      Hi Shane, That’s a weird one.. and annoying! If the valve pin is popped up it shouldn’t lose any air when you remove the hose. Can you tell if the pin is still in the popped up position when you remove the hose? Maybe the hose is pushing the pin down and it’s locking in place. Possibly that might happen if the nozzle on the hose doesn’t quite fit right in the valve. You could try changing the little rubber gasket on the nozzle (on the hose), that can sometimes help with a more secure fit in the valve. Or if you know someone with another pump, try a different one and see if the same thing happens. If it’s still happening then I would definitely get ahold of the company and see if they can exchange your board or at least send a different pump. Good luck!

    • Matthew Houghton says:

      Hello there. I have exactly the same problem. Valve is up and when I take it out, it loses air rapidly. I have an aqua planet. I see other SUPers experience the same issue. Can only think I’m pressing too hard down when I either attach or remove the pump nozzle.
      Cheers, Matt

      • I have exactly the same problem, how have you managed to resolve it? I’ve spent hours trying to pump up my board

  21. Gregory Lee says:

    Allison – I have Starboard 14″ and the seams are starting to spring leaks left and right. I have had the leaks repaired by guy who repairs dingys and Zodiacs so the repairs are good but there seems to be another every other time I use it.

    It is about 3 years old. It is hot here with humidity but I store it out of the sun. Obviously it should be kept out of the sun for extended periods when out of the water and if exposed, let some air out.

    I keep in in the bag when I am not using it (so it is not rolled tighter than need be to fit into the bag it came with).

    I am wondering if there is a life span of an inflatable?

    • Hi Gregory, That’s really too bad. I find the life span hard to predict on these boards. I’ve had some that have lasted for years and years and others that like yours leak after only a few years. It doesn’t seem to matter which company either, it can happen with any of them. Although they are supposed to be constructed stronger now than in the past, leaks can definitely still happen and you rarely see a company that will offer more than a 2-3 year warranty on an inflatable SUP. I’m really sorry that’s happening to your Starboard.

    • I was about to ask if the Starboard welding system also has issues with seam failure. I spent extra to get welded vs glued seams in order to avoid glue failure in the tropics Seems that Starboards still fail? Or was yours built with an older seam technology?

      Heat and humidity do kill the glued seams.

  22. I just bought arocket air 7.6 inflatable and the bottom has a flaw. There is a bump. F one is saying that this normal because of the drop stich conctruction and at the other site is a mast foot connection so the dropstitch construction can’be applied which causes the bump the size of half an egg. Is this correct?

    • That could definitely be true. I’ve never tried the Rocket Air but I know with some of the specialty boards the construction is different and bumps can happen. If you sent them pictures and they don’t seem concerned then chances are it’s totally fine. I’d say just keep an eye on it and if there’s any changes to the bump let them know right away.

  23. Cole Bernard says:

    Hi Allison. I’ve got a new Nautica . Used just a few times. I noticed a small flaw in the material.
    It does not leak air and the blemish is on the surface . It’s a bit smaller than a dime. I’m afraid it might eventually Leak when the max psi is used . It is partially inflated while I store it. Would you recommend a small patch over the blemish?
    Nick

    • Hi Nick, To be honest blemishes are super common and they’re rarely an issue. Chances are it won’t be a problem at all. However it’s hard for me to say without seeing it – feel free to send me a pic at allison@isupworld.com and I’ll take a closer look!

  24. Hello,
    Could anyone tell me what type of glue I should use to stick back my deck pad to my inflatable sup?
    Thank you very much 🙂

  25. I recently bought an irocker sup and a tiny hole is leaking air at the seam or the paddle board. Would it be worth sending the paddle board back or just to fix the seam myself?

    • Hi Casey, If they are willing to warranty the board it would be worth sending back. A tiny leak is easy to fix but it could keep causing you problems. If you’re able to warranty it I would go that route.

  26. I’ve heard a loud pop when inflating my iRocker board, during the “pull the lever” stage, and now the pump won’t inflate anymore. After disassembly, the lever of the pump doesn’t seem the gasket attached anymore, it seems firmly planted at the bottom without any way of reaching it. I could try to find a tool to fish out the gasket from the bottom, but is this something that’s likely to be repairable?

    • Hmmm hard to say. It doesn’t good but to be honest I’m not sure. It’s really hard to know without seeing it. I would suggest emailing iRocker directly. Possibly this is an issue they’ve dealt with before. Hope there’s an easy fix, good luck!

  27. Hi Allison, we have had our Jimmy Stykes Seeker Isup about 4 years. Recently the nonslip deck pads appear to be disintegrating! When standing or kneeling on the pads black streaks and little black flecks are appearing on our legs. Do you have any suggestions for sealing the deck pads or removing and replacing the pads? We are open to any recommendations. Thank you in advance!

    • Hi Laura, To remove a deck pad you’ll need to apply heat like from a blow dryer and kind of scrape it off. I’ve never done it and to be honest I’d be nervous to do it myself. I’d be inclined to take it to a SUP shop and see if they can professionally repair it. There might be something they can apply to help preserve the life of the current pad. Sorry I couldn’t help more!

  28. Diane Evans says:

    Hi just bought a Aztron board for Christmas. I have used it only a few times mostly in fresh water. Took it to the beach a few weeks ago and when pumping it up the seam split. I wrote to Euroskateshop with photos and was told that the split was due to lack of maintenance… This really is a poor excuse for not wanting to give me a new board… anybody else had this problem .thanks Diane

    • Hi Diane, That’s really unfortunate. It’s always hard to know whether a leak is from user error or an issue with the board. However I agree that’s not a great response. A split in the seam can happen if you put in too much air pressure but if you’re inflating it properly and have only used it a few times it does sound like a warranty issue. I would suggest sending the pics to Aztron directly and see what they have to say.

  29. Hi, Allison, After a long day of paddling we rinsed our Tower boards and left them on the boat. Apparently it’s hotter there than the garage and both inflatables expanded and seams split. One has a 2” split, the other appx 8”. I’m pretty handy so I’m going to attempt a DIY. In reading your articles, I deflate both SUPs, apply glue (Aquaseal?) to both sides of the seam, attach and clamp for at least 24 hours. Sound about right?

    • Oh no that’s really too bad. Yes you’ve got the steps down right. Only thing I would add is if possible clean the area with rubbing alcohol before applying the glue (it helps the glue to set). Just make sure the area is dry before patching it all up. Add the glue liberally to the seams, leave it for 5-20 minutes then add more glue then glue on a patch and clamp down for 24 hours before inflating. I really hope that works out for you!

      • Van R Bosman says:

        Apply coat one (as thin as you can get it) let dry 10 minutes or until not tacky, repeat but don’t let the glue dry, tack to finger but not pull up, apply and roll out. Too thick glue is number one problem I see when fixing diy inflatable repairs

    • A.T. Sea says:

      Has anyone used Toobseal or a similar product within their inflatable paddle board to help seal up small leaks in the seam?

      • Checking to see how Toobseal did. We used that in our dinghy for the high pressure floor and it worked great. Have a pinhole leak in the top side seam of our inflatable paddleboard and were thinking of trying it.

  30. Hello and thanks for all these great tips. Hope you can also share ideas for me. I was recently paddling down a slow shallow river and heard a scratch sound. Turns out it was from a home made damn someone tried making that wrapped chain link around rocks. A piece of the metal was sticking up (like a sharp coat hanger) and ran about 3ft of the inflatable. There were no leaks and it stayed perfectly inflated for the 2 hr paddle. But the very shallow rip (just through the putter surface) looks like a knife cut less then a millimeter in a long line. If you fold the depleted board there it is definitely a cut through part of this layer. My concern is that one of these days it will blow out when inflating. Is there a fix you’d recommend to try not only ensure a seal but build strength back? Appreciate you taking the tine to reply to all of us. Thanks. Pete

    • Hi Pete, That is really too bad, what a crazy thing. I would personally do two things.
      1. Get some Aquaseal. Spread some Aquaseal into the cut. That will provide a waterproof seal.
      2. In the repair kit that came with your SUP there should be some PVC patches. I would cover the cut with the patches. You can use the glue from the repair kit or the Aquaseal. Not sure if you’ll have enough PVC for the 3′ long groove but if you need more they sell the patches on Amazon as well.
      That’s about the best you can do to protect it from further damage. Hope it works out!

  31. Hi Allison, I own a body glove performer 11 for 2 years. Only use it during the summer at the lake, so far I am happy with it, but the upper pad is startling to detach from the board. Is this common ? Any suggestions on how to repair it ? Thanks

    • Hi Eddie, That can happen but it’s an easy fix. Use either the glue from the repair kit or Clifton PVC Adhesive works great. If possible clean the area under the traction pad with some rubbing alcohol. Then spread the glue liberally under the traction pad and on the board. Let it set for 24 hours before taking the board out again. Hope this helps!

  32. Hi Allison, I have a C4 Waterman 10.9″ XXL that I purchased 6 years ago when this iSup craze was just starting. It’s been a good hefty board with no issues until this week when my handle pulled out on one side. The attachment point has a rubber disc under the tread that has pulled through (and torn the tread at the same time). I figure I’ll try to do some surgery and glue it back together, but wondering if you have any tips on glue or technique. Also, what other innovative carrying solutions work for people, as I’m not sure how much I’ll trust my repair :^).

    • Hi Steve, My very first board was a C4 Waterman, it lasted a long time as well. The handle issue is tricky. I’ve never been successful at reattaching one, so unfortunately I don’t have any great tips. What I ended up doing with an old board that had a broken handle was I glued on some extra side D-rings and used a piece of rope to make a shoulder strap to carry it. Worked like a charm. You can grab some extra D-rings with patches at Amazon. My rope shoulder strap was pretty basic, you might have something that works better. 🙂

    • Hi again, I just thought of another option for you that might be even easier. OutdoorMaster.com has this SUP carrier strap that you could use and not have to glue on any D-rings or bother with the handle. Plus I have a discount code for them for 20% off. If you go for this use code ISUPWORLD20 at checkout!

      • Hi, That SUP carrier looks an awful lot like an old laptop bag strap that I have. I may rig up something using that. As well, I’ll try the repair kit glue that came with my board to clean up the handle. Here’s what it looks like if you’re interested.
        https://www.dropbox.com/sc/4xgax5qr0xv8g0o/AAD5vG4O2CFFy9bJHksnbBMMa
        Thanks for all the good advice!

        • I added 2 more pics to the link above.
          One shows my fix after using all the glue that came with the repair kit (plus a touch of Gorilla glue I had on hand). The other shows a carrying rig I made using some rope and a laptop bag strap.
          Hope this helps anyone else with similar issues. Happy paddling!

  33. Hi! I like to bring my dogs with me on my SUP and have noticed that they sometimes scratch the foam traction pad. Is there a way to better protect the pad or to fix the scratches where they have torn it?

    • Hi Kiersten, Unfortunately I don’t know of any way to fix dog scratches on a foam traction pad. However I have a friend who brings out a mat when paddling with her big dog, that seems to work well for protecting the pad. You could try something like that going forward. Good luck, hope it works out!

  34. The D ring on my SUP was pulled out and I’m afraid to inflate the board again. Can I replace the D ring and patch around it? any tips on how to do this?

    • Yes you can definitely replace a D-ring. You can buy them on Amazon.com. They come with the PVC patches. Then just use the glue in your repair kit to glue them on. Glue on the patch when your board is deflated and press something heavy on the patch like a weight or a clamp works really well. Then leave it 24 hours before taking the board out again.

  35. My ISUP seems slower since i bought it. Harder to keep up with the gals. Would 303 on the bottom make it faster when paddling? When it was new it was faster.

    • That’s a good question. I’ve never thought of using 303 on the bottom to make it faster. It might work, that stuff does make the material really slippery. I’d say worth a try, it definitely won’t hurt anything.

      • 303 won’t make a huge difference. If you want a little more speed out of your ISUP, apply Onit Pro Xtreme Cream. That stuff really does make a difference. It won’t turn your board into a race board, but it will decrease drag and increase glide. I use it on all my boards. I don’t even bother paddling a new ISUP now until I have coated the bottom. Just make sure you clean the bottom real good to get the 303 off before applying it.

  36. Hi There,
    I own an ISLE paddle board that exploded on the seam while I was inflating with the electrical pump. The seam got detached around 16 inches and the board even though is out of warranty is pretty new. Im in Miami area, and I was wondering if you recommend any company that I could fix?
    Thank you in advance,
    Caio

    • HI, I’m so sorry that happened. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with any companies in that area that can fix a blown out seam. I would recommend calling any local SUP companies that do rentals, they often do repairs on site. Good luck!

  37. Hayley Rees-Williams says:

    Hi guys I was wondering if anyone could please help!!
    I received my board of my 30th birthday present and I love it!!
    It’s been totally fine intill yesterday when I blew it up and took the air hose out all the air came back out threw the valve!! When before you had to use the air hose to deflate! Can anyone help please please? Thank you 🙂

    • Hi Hayley, Di you press the pin valve in and twist it so that it pops up before inflating? With the pin valve popped up no air should escape once inflated. However if you forget to pop it up all the air will come gushing back out once you detach the hose.

  38. niamh crowe says:

    Hi I have an irocker SUP and today I could inflate it slightly and then the air would be coming out faster than going in around the valve and up the hose of the pump. I messed around with the valve alot and it only deflated when you attach the pump.

    • Hi, Did you pop the valve pin up before inflating? If you push the valve pin in and twist so that it pops up no air should escape. If air is still escaping you might need a new valve or it could be that the valve needs tightening. There should be a valve wrench in the repair kit. If you secure it to the valve and give it a good twist clockwise that might do the trick. If not then I would contact iRocker and see if they can replace the valve. Good luck!

  39. I have a Connelly iSUP and the (rubber?) seal around the inflation valve is separating from the board at one particular spot. It is particularly noticeable when deflated. When inflated, it leaks air at that spot under the seal. Any recommendations or recommended products for resealing/reattaching that part of the seal around the valve? Thanks!

    • Hi Mike, Try using Aquaseal to seal it back up. That stuff is awesome, I have used it for leaks and repairs on my boards and it always seems to work great, it’s waterproof and very wear resistant. I have found it to be most effective by applying three coats. Apply first coat and leave it 20 minutes, then apply second coat, leave it 20 minutes then apply third coat and leave it 24 hours before inflating the board again. Put something heavy like a weight or a clamp on the seal while it is drying. Hope that helps!!

      • Lauren Hudson says:

        Would you recommend sealing the valve anyway to prevent a seal issue? Anything else preventative you would recommend?

        • You could definitely seal around the outside of the rubber valve but I wouldn’t personally seal the outside of the valve itself. Not sure what else you could do that is preventative though.

  40. Nick Magnan says:

    Hi Allison,
    I just noticed a bulge in the rubber disc glued around the valve. Does this mean there is a leak in the valve? Or a leak in the PVC under the valve? Something else? Anyone else had this happen? Thanks.

    • Hey Nick, Sometimes that rubber disc can bulge up a bit so it could be no big deal at all. However if it’s a new bulge then it could be something else going on. It’s hard to say without seeing it. If you can send me a picture at allison@isupworld.com and I’ll take a look!

  41. Hi Allison,

    I have an ISLE iSUP which I consider my prize possession. It is three years old and has seen a lot of water time. Recently, the sewn-on center handle tore off on one side. I’ve had to improvise ways in which to carry it to the water but am looking for a way to re-attach or re-sew it on to the board without, of course, puncturing the board.
    Any thoughts? Ideas?
    Thanks!

    • Allison says:

      Hi Scott, I wish I had a good answer for you. I’ve had several people ask about reattaching handles and I don’t know the answer unfortunately. I had a really old board where the handle literally disintegrated. I ended up improvising by glueing on some extra side D-rings and attaching a shoulder strap to carry it. Amazon also sells should straps that just wrap around the board. Sorry I couldn’t help more, if you end up figuring out please let me know!

      • what type of glue did you use to apply the D-rings? I need to re-attach a handle on my board. thanks.

        • You can use the glue that came in the repair kit or I quite like Aquaseal. I’ve been using Aquaseal for any leaks or repairs lately and it works great, plus it’s super wear resistant. I’ve never used it for a handle though. I would think that would be harder to reattach. If you end up using it I’d love to hear how it works out for you with the handle. Good luck!

  42. I’m starting to notice a pattern of surface bubbles on my board. It is about 3 years old. Some of them have joined together on the side near the seem. I’m thinking I am about to have a blowout. I inflate to 15 psi it says the max is 25. I don’t see a way to add photos but I’m looking for repair advice. I

    • Allison says:

      Hi Faith, If they are small I wouldn’t worry too much about them, blowouts are fairly rare. However if they are getting bigger you might want to take the board into a SUP shop and see what they have to say. They could likely release the seam, check it out and reseal it again for you. Good luck, I hope it all works out!

  43. Hi, I just got a new SUP a month ago and today. Used it few times and kept it inflated in my garage area underground. Today I found out there’s an air lump on the top side, next to where the handle is. Where did this come from? How can I remove the lump?!! Thanks

    • Allison says:

      A lump close to the handle is actually quite common and usually just has to do with the way it is constructed. I’d have to see a picture to say for sure though. However if it is a weird lump that wasn’t there when you initially inflated the board, that would definitely be strange and I’m not sure how that would be fixed. Feel free to email me with a picture (admin@isupworld.com) and I’ll take a better look!

  44. I have a six month old iSUP which had a twist along the length of the board. It is possibly 1 inch or more different from front to back. I didn’t notice it initially, only when transporting on a roof rack.
    The UK distributor has inspected this and stated it is not a manufacturing defect and not eligible for replacement.
    Questions are, is there a way to restructure the twist?
    Would you consider their inspection results acceptable?
    Is there published tolerances in manufacture?

    • Allison says:

      That’s an interesting question and to be honest I don’t really know the answer. I’d have to see a picture of the twist to understand more what you’re dealing with. If the twist is just in the top material that shouldn’t be a big deal at all and won’t affect the board. However if it’s more than that it’s hard to say but yes I would tend to trust the inspection results, they’re usually pretty good. I’ve never heard of anyone restructuring a twist on a board though. Sorry I couldn’t help you more. Good luck with this, hopefully it’s nothing to be concerned about and there’s a decent warranty on the paddle board.

  45. I’m having trouble competely inflating my board. I use an electric pump bc my hand pump broke. The board can hold the air I fill it with in the mean time. Any recommendations?

    • Hey Zack, I didn’t fully understand the question. Is the electric pump inflating the board to 15 PSI or is that not working?

  46. Kristin Kutzner Huzar says:

    I love my brand new iRocker SUP. I got it in May, and it was perfect at first, but now there is an issue. When I remove the hose whether from the company-issued electric air pump or from the hand pump, the pin on the valve (which is only supposed to release air when you press on it) immediately loses a huge WHOOSH of air. Consequently, I cannot ever get the board inflated to a proper PSI. I had it out on Lake Michigan yesterday on a yellow flag day, and had to turn back because it seemed downright dangerous to have it out with so little air in it (makes it “floppy” and unstable. I wrote to the company, but also wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue.

    • Hey Kristin, It sounds like the valve pin isn’t popped all the way up when you are inflating it. You know how before inflating you push the valve pin in and twist it so that it pops up? When it’s popped up no air should escape when you remove the hose after inflating it. If air is escaping I would guess that the valve pin hasn’t released all the way up. I’m really not sure why it would do that all of a sudden when it was working perfectly before. To fix it you can fiddle with the valve pin, maybe loosen the little screw in there. At worst you might need to replace the valve, which is actually very easy to do with the valve wrench that comes in the repair kit, you’ll just need to get a new valve from iRocker. But try fiddling with the valve pin first, see if you can get it so that it stays released in the up position better. Good luck, I hope it works out!

      • Lucy Parker says:

        hi.

        I’m having the exact same issues, I have tried messing with the pin too. I can pump the board 4/5 times and literally just lets all the air out.

  47. Hello Allison,
    Thank you for your website!
    I bought a second hand paddle board a few weeks ago -it is about 5 years old. It had a little leak so I patched it but I just discovered that it is still leaking through the edges of the patch… I have to pump some air every 20 minutes or so when I am using it…
    Should I:
    1- patch it again? 2- remove the older patch (not sure this is even possible)? 3- take it to a professional? 4- forget about fixing it and pump air every 20 minutes?

    Thank you!

    Yann

    • Allison says:

      Hi Yann, I’ve had this problem before too where my patch didn’t work. The trick is all in how you apply the glue. What I have found to work best is:
      When the board is deflated clean the area where the leak is. Then apply glue liberally to the area with the leak. Wait 20 minutes then apply another layer of glue. Wait another 20 minutes then apply another layer and glue on the patch. Apply something heavy like a weight or a clamp to the patched area and leave it for 24 hours. To really seal the patch I will often apply a layer of Aquaseal around the edges of the patch to completely seal it. Aquaseal works great for leaks and tears. It’s totally waterproof and very wear resistant. It’s really overkill applying the Aquaseal at the end but I find it works well.

      So to fix your patch the best way would be to remove the patch and start over. It can be a little tricky but the way to do it is to heat up the area with a blow dryer. Then use something like a putty knife (or something similar with no sharp edges) and slowly work at scraping the patch off while still applying the heat from the hair dryer. If you don’t want to go this route or if it’s not working you could also just try applying a couple coats of Aquaseal around the edges of the patch to help seal it off.

      Good luck, I hope it works out for you!

  48. A branch fell on our new inflatable SUP and created a surface tear on the contact pad. It doesn’t go all the way through, but I’m wondering if I should just tear off the loose piece or try to
    Glue it down with the vinyl glue you suggested?
    Thank you

    • Allison says:

      Hi Chris, That’s a bummer. Is the tear on the deck pad or on the actual PVC material? If it’s the PVC material I would try to repair it. Not sure about tearing off the loose piece without seeing it but what you can do is get some Aquaseal (I’ve been using this stuff a lot lately and it works great, very wear resistant) to cover the area that is torn and either glue down the loose piece or even glue on a little patch. For any leaks or tears best way to use the Aquaseal or even just the glue in the repair kit is to apply glue liberally, wait 20 minutes, then apply more glue, wait another 20 minutes then apply a 3rd coating of glue and glue down the patch if using one. Then put something heavy on it (if glueing down a patch) and leave it for a good 24 hours. That’ll do the trick.

  49. Suzanne Sheppard says:

    Can you please recommend a vinyl patch for a Body Glove inflatable SUP? I see you recommend H-66 adhesive. Thank you!

    • Allison says:

      Hi Suzanne, If you don’t have a patch you can grab some of those on Amazon. I’ve been using the Aquaseal glue lately for any leaks or repairs and I really like it. It dries clear and is totally waterproof and wear resistant. I’ve been really happy with it.

  50. Nicole Mazure says:

    So I used the wrench to let the air out- and the valve popped off! I read the direction or what little direction I was give. Anyone know what I need to fix this?

    • Allison says:

      Hi Nicole, Did the whole valve loosen from your board or did the little pin part that you push in pop off? If it’s the whole valve you can screw it back in and tighten it with the valve wrench in the repair kit. However if the little pin popped off that’s harder to fix. You might be able to fix it by taking the whole valve out of the board with the valve wrench. To do this secure the valve wrench to the valve and give the valve a good turn (I can’t remember which way but I believe it says on the valve wrench). Once it loosens you can unscrew the whole valve and take it right out of your board. From there you might be able to reattach the part that popped off.

      I had a friend who did this same thing to her SUP a while back. The little pin part broke when she tried to twist it with a wrench. We had to change her whole valve, which is actually really easy to do if you can get your hands on a new H3 valve. You definitely don’t want to use a wrench to let the air out. Easiest way I find is to just push the valve in and twist. I usually bring a towel to clean off my board and I’ll sometimes use that to push the valve in and twist it, easier than using my bare hands.
      Good luck! I hope it’s an easy fix!

  51. Lucy Sorenson says:

    The handle in the middle of my ISUP recently tore and I’m wondering the best way to repair the board. The company won’t do anything because it’s out of warranty. Is there a glue that would work? The deck pad has torn too. Will I need to replace the whole deck pad? Wondering how much this will cost and if it’s worth repairing.

    • Allison says:

      Hi Lucy, I’ve never actually had to repair a handle on a SUP. I’m not actually sure what would be the best way to repair that unfortunately. For the traction pad, you shouldn’t have to replace the whole deck pad.
      If it’s just torn you can glue down the loose sections. I’ve used the glue in the repair kit and that works well but any vinyl cement glue will do the trick.

  52. Jeana borkholder says:

    Would you recommend using the PVC glue on the seal around the inflation piece where it attaches to the board…how do you clamp that?

    • Allison says:

      Hi Jeana, I’m not sure I understand what you mean. Are you talking about around the valve on the board?

  53. Jesse Dorantes says:

    What size seam tear of diy reparable? How big does it need to be to get a professional?

    • Most seam tears I’ve dealt with have been quite small and easily repairable. If your SUP came with a repair kit then there should be a couple PVC patches in there. There’s no real rule of thumb that I know of but I would say if the seam tear is larger than one of those patches then you should look at getting it professionally repaired.

  54. I have a Hydro force SUP board but the pump doesn’t fit in when pumping (one person has to hold it down and in firmly and the other has to pump) and air escapes as it is being inflated meaning I can never get it to the correct PSI. I saw the thing about tightening the valve, would that solve this pumping up issue?

    • Allison says:

      Hi Sophie, I don’t find it happens often but it can be an issue with some boards. Sometimes fiddling with the valve pin can help. Another option is to change the rubber ring around the valve attachment on the hose. Sometimes the pumps come with a couple different size rubber rings for this reason. If nothings working talk to the manufacturer and see what they suggest or maybe go with an electric pump.

    • Kim Odhner says:

      Sophie, thanks for asking this question, and Allison thank you for your reply. Problem solved! We like our Hydro force SUP and you have restored my faith in the board ….

  55. Hi
    I have recently noticed a lot of tiny bubbles appearing on the deck of my isup when paddling. Does anyone know of a good, waterproof, clear deck sealant? I have used storm sure on small repairs, but feel the whole deck needs a layer of something to seal.
    Thanks
    Bea

    • Hi Bea, I’ve had good success with this Vinyl Cement Glue. I have found it to work great for almost any repairs on an inflatable SUP and should do the trick for the traction pad as well. Hope it helps!

  56. I have a sup that is not flat it’s got a round top now any suggestions ow what has happen to it

    • sounds like the drop stitch is damaged internally which is what keeps tension internally. It connects the inner top to the inner bottom which prevents your SUP from becoming a balloon.

  57. Have you ran into an issue with the valve leaking ONLY when the hose is attached to pump it up? When inflating my new (but used) board, it pumps fine until about 5 psi, and then air starts to push back out of the valve. When the hose is removed, it hold air just fine. Can anyone help?

    • Hmm that’s interesting. Sometimes that can happen when the board is almost full, like closer to 12-15 PSI however I don’t think I’ve had that happen at only 5 PSI. Have you tried a different pump? I’d be curious if it still happened with a different pump.

      • Hi, I also had a same problem at about 6 – 7 psi (JP Australia SUP). Is it a minor problem in pump that can be fixed or do I need to get new pump.

        • Hey Erik, it’s hard to say. Could be the pump but could also be that the valve on the board needs adjusting. If you know anyone else with a different pump you could try that would be worth a shot. Otherwise maybe try contacting the manufacturer to see what advice they would give. Would love to hear if you solve it, seems to be a more common issue than I thought!

      • I have tried 3 different pumps now and the board starts leaking when I get to 9-10 pounds, even with a friend holding the pump tightly turned near the connection. I could not get it near 13 lbs. Any help/ideas out there?

        • Hey Sylvia, Which board do you have? Sometimes trying a different rubber ring around the valve attachment on the hose can help if the pump isn’t sealing properly on the valve. If your pump didn’t come with any other rubber rings you could just try fiddling with the one that’s there. If you look at the valve attachment on the pump hose you’ll see a little rubber ring, it’s usually either white or black and it can be removed. Sometimes adjusting that ring can be helpful. Good luck, sorry I couldn’t help more!

    • Sounds like the gasket is missing from the hose. That seals the two when it’s inflating but without that gasket there isn’t a flush seal and it will just create a pathway for leaking.

  58. tom gronli says:

    Is it a good idea to attempt to install nose & tail guards on an inflatable board ? Will they stay on ? Also just wondering if all board manufacturers use the same type air pumps – are the valves compatible ? I am shopping for two boards now for birthday presents. Thank you

    • Allison says:

      Hi Tom, That’s a really good question. I have never tried to install nose and tail guards on an inflatable SUP and I have not heard of anyone else doing it. I’m not sure if it would work well, they would have to be removed each time the board is deflated I think. I’ll look into it a bit more! For the valves, all inflatable SUP’s use the Halkey-Roberts style air valve so the pumps should all be compatible.

  59. I never use mine in salt water anyhow.

  60. This is helpful. But leashes are better and more important than PFDs in most situations. See Freesup.org for more on this.

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